Trek 1.2 Review (2008)
The 2008 Trek 1.2 is the latest in Trek’s entry level road bikes. It’s a very affordable bike that falls below the $750 price category, and for many, it’s the first step to the world of high-performance road cycling. Trek has updated many of their model numbers in 2008 from the thousand (1000 last year) series, to the x.x series (1.2 this year). This model number change is not just cosmetic, as it does introduce a few key differences with the previous years Trek 1000.
Visuals
The most notable difference this year is probably with the paint job. With 2008’s Trek 1.2, we get a metallic black (with red, and white accents), and the pearl white model. The pearl white is pretty slick, but I do miss last years colors. The 2007 models came with the metallic black, but also the Discovery Blue/Titantite black, as well as the Flare Duotone (essentially a strikingly bright orange).
Frame
The Trek 1.2 includes the “Alpha Aluminum Frame” with the “ProTour Geometry”. I’m pretty sure this is marketing speak for entry-level, quality made frame. It will be heavier than a weight weenies carbon frame ($$$ expensive), but for the low price, it’s quite good. The Bontrager Carbon fork is a bonus for a sub $750 bike, and it does seem to smooth out the ride of the aluminum frame.
Drivetrain
The shifters are Shimano 2203 STI 8-speed (that’s a difference over the 2007 Trek 1000). It’s a bit disappointing that the Trek 1.2 didn’t get at least the Sora shifters.
The derailleurs are not the same as last years, with the front being Shimano 2203, and the rear the downgraded Shimano Sora. This comes as a second dissapointment, but I suspect these downgrades are due to the pressures Trek is facing with the falling US dollar, as most of the parts are imported. The 2203 front derailleur is a notable weak point with this bike. There is too much flex in the cage, and the pivots, causing the chain to be thrown while going down to the higher (smaller) gear. The crank is the Bontrager Sport 50/39/30.
Components
The brakeset has also changed down to the 2203 STI, compared to the Sora of years past. The Bontrager Race Basic saddle sits atop a carbon seat post, and will probably be one of the first things you replace (stock saddles can be uncomfortable for many, as everyone is different…).
Warranty
All Trek bikes include a lifetime warranty on the frame for the original owner, 5 years on most of the Bontrager parts and the fork, and 1 year on pretty much everything else.
Conclusion
The 2008 Trek 1.2 is going to be a great road bike for anyone that is new to road cycling, and doesn’t want to spend a lot of money to get started. It isn’t a bike that will be upgraded very much, but many will sell it/trade it in, and move on to a higher model number as they become more serious with cycling. The nice part about Trek bikes is that they hold quite a bit of their value as it’s a very popular brand, which does help when upgrading. As always, make sure to visit your local bike shop, ask lots of help, and get properly fitted before purchasing any bike.
Click to view the Trek 1.2 on Trekbikes.com
Full specs
| Frameset | |
|---|---|
| Sizes | 43, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm |
| Frame | Alpha White Aluminum |
| Fork | Bontrager Approved, carbon |
| Wheels | |
| Wheels | Alloy hubs; Alex alloy rims w/eyelets |
| Tires | Bontrager Select, 700×25c (43cm: 650×25c) |
| Drivetrain | |
| Shifters | Shimano 2203 STI, 8 speed |
| Front Derailleur | Shimano 2203 |
| Rear Derailleur | Shimano Sora |
| Crank | Bontrager Sport 50/39/30 |
| Cassette | SRAM 850 12-26, 8 speed |
| Pedals | Nylon body w/alloy cage; clips and straps |
| Components | |
| Saddle | Bontrager Race Basic |
| Seat Post | Bontrager Carbon |
| Handlebars | Bontrager Select VR, 31.8mm |
| Stem | Bontrager Select, 7 degree, 31.8mm |
| Headset | Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed |
| Brakeset | Alloy dual pivot w/Shimano 2203 STI levers |
Would it be advisable to go ahead and buy the 1.5 instead of the 1.2 if I had the money?
I think I would. The 1.5 has better components, and a more upgradeable frame. It would be more expensive to upgrade the 1.2 to the 1.5 level (over time), then it would be to get the fully upgraded 1.5. Also, I’d check out the 2008 Specialized Allez. It has some pretty great components for the price.
Justin,
I have a Trek 1000 which came stock with the 2203 front derailleur. However since it’s the 2007 version of the 1000, the rear derailleur is Tiagra and the shifters are Sora.
Shifting of the front derailleur can be infuriating sometimes. Even after adjustments. Would an upgrade of the front derailleur provide a difference in shifting performance? That would seem logical enough, but would it work without upgrades to the rest of the group?
Thanks.
Matt,
Agreed, the 2203 front dérailleur can cause some problems for some folks. The constant adjustment can be bothersome. That said, you may notice a slight difference by upgrading the front dérailleur to Tiagra or older 8-9 speed components. I believe these are compatible with existing components, but double check with your LBS, or just check ebay for used components to save some cash and give it a try.
I would first ensure that the correct adjustments are being made to the front derailleur, and *also* ensure that the cable is correctly adjusted.
How do you shift gears on this bike?
There is a small level that you can press down that seems to move up gears but how do you then shift down?
Cheers.
John, in order to shift down with this shifter you will press the actual brake lever. This allows you to keep your hands on the brake at all times. With a more expensive drivetrain and shifter they will include the up and down shifting in the brake so you can stay in the drops.
Would you recommend this bike as a touring bike? I was told that a rack WOULD fit in the back of the 1.2. Thanks in advance!
How would you rate the 1.2 versus the Jamis Ventura Comp? I am having a hard time deciding? Please advise.
Hello. Thanks for the site – very informative.
I just purchased a 1.2 and have had trouble with the front derailleur (the 2203). After many adjustments, my LBS has decided to upgrade it to the Tiagra at no extra cost. Should I now upgrade the rear from the Sor to Tiagra or 105? If I do upgrade the rear, should I then upgrade the shifters to Sora or Tiagra
Thanks again.
Christian,
That’s really great that your LBS upgraded your 2203 to Tiagra. The 2203 (and Sora) front derailleurs have been known to be a pain for a lot of people. The Tiagra FD should be a noticeable improvement.
Your question is a bit tricky though. I think it would depend on the cost of upgrading the rest of the components. If this is your first road bike in a while, the Sora components will be pretty good. Also, are you planning on eventually racing or participating in triathlons?
I suppose it depends on the cost, but I’m not sure if I would spend too much upgrading the Trek 1.2 components.
The Tiagra components are a bit more competitive, especially in regards to the brifters. The Tiagra can be shifted easily while in the drops, whereas the Sora will require some movement to shift with your thumb.
I would try it out with the Sora, and see if you are happy with the Sora brifters, and rear derailleur.
Thanks for the reply! I will probably just stick with what I have and upgrade the whole bike in a year or two.
I have a new question now though. In addition to upgrading the front derailleur, my LBS also upgraded the crank from the Bontrager sport, to a Shimano 105. The Bontrager was not working well with the new Tiagra derailleur.
The bike feels a little different since the change and I am wondering if it has something to do with crank arm length. The new Shimano crank is a 175mm length. I am not sure what the Bontragrer length was, but something definitely feels different.
When I am up out of the saddle, I feel like my knees are close to hitting the handlebars; and when I am down in the drops, I feel like my knees are hitting me in the stomach/chest.
My bike is a 58cm; I am 5′11, with a 33 inch inseam.
Do you have any idea what the stock crank length would be for a 58cm Trek 1.2?
Thanks again!
-Christian
I am wanting to purchase a road bike from trek and i am looking at the 1.5 a little more than the 1.2 . I am new to this and i am wanting some advice to which one you recommend.
If this is your first go at serious cycling, be prepared to shell out *well over* $1,000… and keep on paying. These bikes (and this one in particular) are like Jaguars from the 1980s – fancy, impressive & fun… temperamental, frustrating & *needlessly* expensive. I had this bike for 3 months and loved it for a while. However, for anyone new to cycling, be prepared to upgrade both the tires and the tubes. I didn’t know I was supposed to and, after a period of incessant flats (yes, I checked the tire before replacing), I was really turned off by the sport. Many suggest upgrading the brakes on the 1.2 as well. There are so many upgrades you’ll need to make (pedals, seat, tires, tubes), then you’ll have to buy special cleats for the pedals, a helmet, clothing, lights, bottle cage, bottle, seat bag, pump. After you’ve done all of this, you’ll probably either have a few flats or it will be time to replace the brakes. The sport is a money sink & it doesn’t have to be. This isn’t a Schwinn or a Huffy. It should come with a functional seat, proper pedals, durable tires, durable tubes and decent brakes. These bikes are capitalist RACKETS! As good as it felt riding this new Trek around, I felt I was burning a slow hole through my wallet. I felt I was being taken advantage of. The law of averages means you can go months w/o a flat. It also provides for you having 3 flats in one week. This gets real old/expensive real quickly. What’s more, changing the tire is no easy task and you’re hands will get dirty. No big deal, except for the fact that the handlebars are WHITE! (Jaguar – pretty, flashy, not functional) I took my bike to the bike shop and even they had a hard time changing the tire. Just when I was in my 50th km, I’d get a flat & knew all that momentum was die down for a frustrating experience. What’s more, the front derailer required two shifts and clicked quite often, even after professionals adjusted both of them. It may be an entry-level road bike, but no Trek should need this many upgrades.
I sold my Trek on Ebay for the same price I bought it for. I bought some Nikes and a weight rack for a few hundred more, but I’m making all that money back because my Nike’s last and I need no upgrades.
I have my 1.2 for about a week and 1/2 and have found no complaints with it (100+ miles). I upgaded the tubes to a thorn resistant/slime filled tube before I picked the bike up as Albuquerque has goatheasds and glass galore.
I havent had an issue witht the FD possibly due to the fact that I seem to spend about 95% of the time in the top ringbut it has worked fine so far.
I have really liked the shifting with the “rapid fire” like upshifts. Again I spend almost 100% on the brake hoods so they work for me.
The brakes could use a little improvemet but its more likely pads vs the levers. Stopping from 35 mph+ on a hill was not as sure as I would have hoped but since I weigh about 225 I’m abit heavier than the average rider so better pads may be in order.
This seems like a very solid entry level bike with decent components but I dont feel it would be a “racer” but makes a great bike in the price range for alot of people.
My LBS has the 2008 model year 1.2 on sale for under $600. It would be my first road bike. Should – buy it?
I just purchased a 1.2 last week. I have always ridden Mt. bikes and this is my first road bike. The local shop was pushing the Madone…but being my first road bike I was not about to drop 6,000+ on the Madone. the 1.2 is fine for me, yeah it’s definately not as smooth or light as the Madone but it works for me and I am quite happy.
I went from a Wal-Mart Roadmaster MTN bike to a Trek 7200FX hybrid and finally to the Trek 1.2 and have to say that the 1.2 was and is a great investment: unless you’re a pro-level racer. The 1.5 would of course be a wiser investment, but with the 1.2 being well under $1000, it’s just a better deal.
I bought my 1.2 in April 2008 and since then have put in 7500+ miles on it without any problems. All I have done to the bike aside from cleaning and lube, was add water cages, a bike computer, a saddle bag and just recently replaced the bar tape. As for the components, I haven’t had any major problems with any of them. My only complaint is that the braking could use a little more strength and is probably just a matter of going with higher grade pads.
Although I haven’t yet done it, I agree that the saddle could be replaced with something slightly more comfortable. But even with the stock saddle, I have pulled off two century rides sans too much discomfort. Perhaps when some extra cash flow comes in I’ll upgrade.
Overall I think the Trek 1.2 is a great investment for entry level road riding. The components are good, the ride is comfortable, the bike handles well, it’s definetly a sharp looking bike and all this for well under $1000. So unless you’re heading for the TdF or have a a whole lot of extra cash stashed under your bed mattress,,,buy it.
I bought the ‘08 Trek 1.2 as it was on clearance to make way for ‘09 models and while I was concerned in the beginning that I made the wrong choice, for the money and that I am new to road cycling, I’m happy with my purchase.
The cons discussed (brakes, front derailleur) are certainly valid but as beginner you probably wouldn’t notice much. The brakes do their job, they just aren’t confidence inspiring or as powerful as I think they should be. The FD is a pain trying to get dialed in just right but again does it’s job. These will probably be my next upgrades and thankfully are cheap. The saddle isn’t too bad, I ride 15-20 miles everyday with occasional longer rides as I build up the strength/stamina. I do wear bike shorts w/padding and most the pain was in the beginning as I got used to simply riding a bike again.
If you’re on a budget, its a great bike. I’m learning and messing around with the different parts so the fact that its “cheap” doesn’t bother me. Plus, now that I’ve decided I love road bicycling, once I hit my goals (lose weight, get stronger/faster), I’m going to treat myself to a much more expensive bike that I’ll appreciate more and see the differences in everything more immediately since I started on this entry-level bike. I’ve added the same things as Ohiorider but also changed to Michelin Krylions as the wheels/tireset I got with it weren’t stock from my LBS.
I recently purchased a trek 1.2 and put on a Rido seat that looks like a big letter Y. I went for a long ride tonight at Newport beach for about an hour and the bike was smooth, fast, very responsive, well worth the price I paid at 650 new. I have the white and red accents moel and i think it’s a beautiful bike. The last time I rode a road bike was in the 1970s a Peugeot that I rode to New York City from Queens everyday to work. But heck I was a kid really and I don’t remember my ass hurting. I could buy a more expensive bike or higher upgrade but this model fills my needs for now. The seat it comes with sucks, hard as a rock like sitting on a metal pipe. But the seat replacement will be my only upgrade. I do not plan to ride this bike on beat up streets, only bike paths at parks and beaches at night. I also own a mountain Bike and a comfort bike. In any hobby you can always spend more but getting what fits your needs is the way to go.
I bought a trek 1.2 2008 model and have had nothing but trouble with it. I have always admired trek bikes and was chuffed when I first bought it. The main problem has been a clicking noise from the bottom bracket, especially when I pedal hard. It has been back to the shop three times already. The mechanic said that it was a problem with these aluminium frames. Has anyone else had the same problem?
Andy: I also have a Trek 1.2, and, after a year, has also started to give me problems. Yes, a clicking in the bottom bracket is driving me nuts. It comes and goes, so I’m thinking a bearing is failing. I have the Red Shield coverage, but replacement doesn’t cover labor, so @ $18 just to look at the BB, its a rip off. Once in the shop already, and another trip will equal the cost of a BB, which I could put in myself. (I had a Phil Wood BB that was still going strong after 20 years, so if it fits, I’ll put it in myself.) Trek won’t specify what the BB is on the 1.2. Otherwise, it’s a heckuva bike, and once vital parts are updated, it’ll be good to go for a few years. Expensive, though.
I have to agree with most of the opinions here. I used to ride and race 15 years ago on a kestral and it was wonderful.
retired from cycling but got the bug again and bought a 1.2 ….it has many nice features but the front derailler stinks and i have thrown the chain several times….the brakes can be fixed by replacing them with dura ace pads cost about 20.00….
I replaced the saddle with a cella regal like i had in the past, hard but good choice, using cheap mountain bike spd pedals and they work great for 30.00…after reading your site i am going to replace front derailler….thanks again for the advise….
I replaced the front derailler with ultegra triple and the shifting improved dramatically….worth every penny. my dealer just doesn’t get the message that in the mts of north ga brakes and shifting are very important where your life is at stake….now i have good brakes and a good working triple crank with excellent shifting……
Trek 1.2 is a great beginners bike. Had no complains whatsoever. Droved a friends pinarello roadbike and pinarello is only a notch or 2 better considering the price. My friends and I agreed that european roadbikes that are really expensive and very light in weight are just status quo for people who shows-off. Performance wise, even with a trek 1.2, if i’m going to race. I will guarantee that my opponent that will use a pinarello. I will beat him on a sprint on a 10 mile road.
I am another delighted Trek 1.2 owner who has put his bike through a little over 10,000km’s of happy riding. I have replaced the chain twice, bar tape once, and have the mysterious clicking from the BB.
I am going to take it out, clean and re-grease it to see if that helps, otherwise I think a new BB may be in order.
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